Nature & LandscapesThe Escarpment
The plateau drops two thousand metres to the Red Sea in about ninety kilometres.
Photo DΛVΞ GΛRCIΛ / Pexels

A modernist capital on a highland plateau that UNESCO listed whole, a steam railway down to the Red Sea, and three hundred islands off Massawa that almost nobody visits.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesThe plateau drops two thousand metres to the Red Sea in about ninety kilometres.
Photo DΛVΞ GΛRCIΛ / Pexels

3,018 metres in the southern highlands, with terraced farming right up the sides.

The highland streams run in the summer rains and are dry the rest of the year.
Photo Cafer SEVİNÇ / Pexels
Lakes & RiversNo permanent rivers to speak of — the water here is the sea, and it is very warm.
Photo Re pour / Pexels

Three hundred and fifty islands, four of them inhabited, and reefs almost nobody has dived.
Photo Vika Glitter / Pexels

Semenawi Bahri, a strip of cloud forest on the escarpment an hour from the capital.
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

Wild ass in the Danakil, dugong and turtle in the Dahlak archipelago.
Photo Pranav Chaugule / Pexels

There is no safari circuit. The wildlife is coastal and marine, and it is worth the swap.
Photo Murilo Fonseca / Pexels

Highland terracing built by hand over centuries, and still the reason the topsoil is there.
Photo GOWTHAM AGM / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

Tigrinya, Tigre, Afar, Bilen and five more, roughly half Christian and half Muslim.
Photo Isaac Naph / Pexels
Traditional PeopleThe Afar on the southern coast, and the Rashaida who came across from Arabia in the 1840s.

Eritrean stews on injera, and an Italian coffee culture that never left.
Photo Max Vakhtbovych / Pexels
Festivals & CelebrationsMeskel bonfires in September, and Eid in Massawa, in the same country and often the same street.
Photo Christian Alemu / Pexels
Traditional Arts & CraftsSilver filigree from Asmara's goldsmiths, and coiled straw baskets from the highlands.
Photo zaid mohammed / Pexels

A Red Sea port that traded with Rome, and a highland city on the escarpment above it.
Photo Ayşegül Aytören / Pexels
HeritageThe first modernist city anywhere to be inscribed as a World Heritage site, in 2017.
Photo Amar Preciado / Pexels
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesOne a cool art-deco plateau town, the other a coral-block Ottoman port on the sea.
Photo Helin Gezer / Pexels
ArchitectureFiat Tagliero's concrete wings in Asmara, and Massawa's buildings cut from the reef itself.
Local LifeAsmara walks Harnet Avenue in the evening. Everybody does, and nobody hurries.
Photo pierre matile / Pexels
Family & CommunityAsmara is small, walkable and calm, and children are everywhere in it after dark.
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Down the escarpment by road or by the restored steam railway, two thousand metres in a morning.

Eritrea is a cycling country — the Tour of Eritrea climbs the escarpment.
Photo Leyla Helvaci / Pexels

A handful of restored Italian-era hotels in Asmara. Nothing on the coast yet.
The frames people come home with.
Asmara's facades in the late afternoon, when the plaster goes warm and the streets empty.
Hidden GemsA hillside outside Asmara stacked with the wreckage of thirty years of war.
Photo bigworldinalens / Pexels

Nowhere else has a whole intact modernist city, a steam railway and an unfished reef.
Nowhere else has a whole intact modernist city, a steam railway and an unfished reef.
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