
Escarpment and Rift
The Rift Valley cuts the whole country in half, with highlands either side of it.
Photo Christian Alemu / Pexels

The only African country never colonised, with its own alphabet, calendar and church — rock-hewn churches at Lalibela, the Simien escarpment above four thousand metres, and the Danakil below sea level.
Where the country actually takes you.

The Rift Valley cuts the whole country in half, with highlands either side of it.
Photo Christian Alemu / Pexels
MountainsRas Dashen is 4,550 metres; the trek to it runs along the escarpment for days.
Photo Nandakumar R / Pexels

Tis Issat — the water that smokes — where the Blue Nile leaves Lake Tana.
Photo Kalz📸🇺🇬 Michael / Pexels

The source of the Blue Nile, with monasteries on its islands still in use.

Landlocked since 1993 — the water here is the Rift lakes and the crater lakes of Bishoftu.
Photo Edu Raw / Pexels

Harenna's cloud forest in Bale, and the church forests that are the last woodland of the north.
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

The gelada lives nowhere else on earth, and grazes the Simien escarpment in troops of hundreds.
Photo Atypeek Dgn / Pexels

The Bale mountains hold the last five hundred Ethiopian wolves, on the Sanetti plateau.
Eco TourismGuides and scouts drawn from the villages inside the parks, which is why the wolves are still there.
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

Its own alphabet, its own calendar with thirteen months, and its own church since the fourth century.

The lower Omo holds sixteen peoples in one valley, and the visits should be arranged carefully.
Photo Sami Kofer / Pexels
Food & CuisineSourdough injera under everything, and fasting food that has made vegans of visitors.
Photo Christian Alemu / Pexels
Festivals & CelebrationsTimkat in January at Gondar, and Meskel bonfires across the country in September.
Photo Christian Alemu / Pexels

Handwoven shemma cotton, and Coptic crosses in silver, each region with its own shape.
Photo Eden Kefale / Pexels

Eleven churches cut down into solid rock in the twelfth century, still in use every day.
Photo Estella / Pexels

The Aksumite stelae, and the seventeenth-century castles of Gondar built by Fasilides.
Where people actually live between the landmarks.

Founded 1886, at 2,355 metres, and the diplomatic capital of the continent.
Photo Tsion Molla / Pexels

The tukul, and the rock architecture of Tigray cut into cliff faces you have to climb.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels

Coffee was found here, and it is still roasted, ground and poured in front of you.
Photo Ray Suarez / Pexels
Family & CommunityCool highland air, short flights between the historic sites, and no malaria at altitude.
Photo Fuad T Tiba / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Multi-day treks in the Simiens and Bale, and the Danakil at a hundred metres below sea level.
Photo Atypeek Dgn / Pexels

The Simien traverse, Bale's plateau, and the Tigray churches that need a rope.
Photo Baraa Obied / Pexels
Luxury TravelLimalimo and Bale Mountain Lodge — small, sited well, and built by people who stayed.
The frames people come home with.
The light at four thousand metres, and portraiture that has to be asked for properly.

Rock churches in cliff faces reached by hand and foot, with almost nobody else there.
Photo Alex Moliski / Pexels

No colonial period, its own script, its own calendar, and its own year that starts in September.
No colonial period, its own script, its own calendar, and its own year that starts in September.
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