Nature & LandscapesThe Adrar
A sandstone plateau cut by palm-filled canyons, with the old caravan towns in them.
Photo Moaz Tobok / Pexels

A two-kilometre freight train across the Sahara you can ride on top of, four caravan towns with medieval manuscript libraries still in family hands, and the largest bird colony in West Africa at the Banc d'Arguin.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesA sandstone plateau cut by palm-filled canyons, with the old caravan towns in them.
Photo Moaz Tobok / Pexels

915 metres of magnetite near Zouerat, so iron-rich it deflects a compass.
Photo m0us3b .1 / Pexels

Permanent pools in the rock south of Atar, with crocodiles that have been there since the Sahara was wet.

The southern border, and the only permanent river in the country.
Photo Ben Khatry / Pexels

Cold current, big surf, and the Imraguen fishing villages working with dolphins.
Photo Shivansh Sharma / Pexels

Date palm groves in the Adrar canyons — the only shade for hundreds of kilometres.
Photo Engin Akyurt / Pexels
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

Two million wading birds winter here, on the largest tidal flats in West Africa.

The wildlife is birds and desert-adapted mammals, and the coast is where it concentrates.
Photo Kent Zhong / Pexels
Eco TourismThe Banc d'Arguin is a Ramsar site and one of the most important wintering grounds on earth.
Photo Juanita Theron / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

Bidhan and Haratin Moors across the north, Fulani, Soninke and Wolof along the river.
Photo Faruk Tokluoğlu / Pexels
Traditional PeopleA coastal people who fish with lanchas and, by tradition, with the help of dolphins.
Food & CuisineFish and rice from the river south, and the three-glass tea ceremony everywhere.
Photo Cup of Couple / Pexels

Poetry, camel racing and manuscript readings in the old caravan town.
Photo Talha Riaz / Pexels

Moorish silver, tooled leather cushions, and the painted wooden chests of the Adrar.
Photo Mark Henry Rood / Pexels

Twelfth-century caravan towns in dry stone, half-buried by the dunes now.
Photo Hale Ş / Pexels

Family libraries in Chinguetti holding astronomy, law and poetry from the middle ages.
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesA capital built from nothing in 1958, and a port with the world's biggest ship graveyard.
Photo Ben Khatry / Pexels
ArchitectureKsour built of flat stone without mortar, and streets that the dunes are taking back.
Photo mg shotz / Pexels
Local LifeThe pirogues come in at Nouakchott beach and the whole catch is sold on the sand.
Family & CommunityDistances are long and facilities are few. Better for teenagers than for toddlers.
Photo Moaz Tobok / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Twenty hours in the open on top of iron ore, in the cold, and people do it on purpose.
Outdoor ExperiencesCamel treks between the ksour, days at a time, sleeping out on the sand.
Photo Moaz Tobok / Pexels
Luxury TravelAuberges in Atar and Chinguetti run by people who know the desert, and little else.
Photo Andrea Musto / Pexels
The frames people come home with.

Chinguetti in the last hour, when the dunes in the streets are lit from the side.
Hidden GemsA hot spring under palms in a narrow gorge, and the best shade in the country.
Photo Djamel Ramdani / Pexels

A medieval library in a sand-buried town, and a train you ride on the ore.
A medieval library in a sand-buried town, and a train you ride on the ore.
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