Nature & LandscapesThe Air Massif
Granite mountains standing two thousand metres out of the sand, with guelta pools in them.
Photo SERHAT TUĞ / Pexels

The Tenere is the emptiest desert on earth, the Air massif rises out of it to two thousand metres, and the last West African giraffes live wild an hour from the capital.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesGranite mountains standing two thousand metres out of the sand, with guelta pools in them.
Photo SERHAT TUĞ / Pexels
Mountains2,022 metres in the Air, and the high point of a range full of rock art.
Photo Jeffry Surianto / Pexels
WaterfallsPermanent rock pools in the Air, the only standing water for hundreds of kilometres.
Photo Isaac Naph / Pexels
Lakes & RiversThe river runs 550 kilometres across the southwest and the whole country leans on it.
Photo Sagar Thapa / Pexels
Beaches & CoastLandlocked, and the swimming is off the sandbanks at Niamey when the river is low.
Forests & RainforestPalm-filled wadis in the Air, green lines through absolutely bare rock.
Photo Engin Akyurt / Pexels
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

About six hundred of them at Kouré, the only wild population left in the whole of West Africa.
Photo Regan Dsouza / Pexels
SafariShared with Benin and Burkina Faso — lion, elephant and buffalo on the Niger river.
Photo Camille Cox / Pexels
Eco TourismKouré's giraffes live among fields, and the community is paid to keep it that way.
Photo alameen .ng / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

Tuareg and Toubou in the north, Hausa and Zarma in the south, Wodaabe in between.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels

The Gerewol, where the men dress and dance and the women choose.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels
Food & CuisineMillet paste with sauce, and kilishi — beef dried thin and spiced, the best in the region.
Photo Tito Zzzz / Pexels
Festivals & CelebrationsTuareg and Wodaabe gather at In-Gall in September when the salt pastures come up.

The Agadez cross in silver, and camel saddles and boxes in tooled leather.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels

A mud minaret twenty-seven metres high, and the Sultanate that has stood behind it since 1449.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels
HeritageAgadez, the Air and Tenere reserves, and W National Park — desert, mountain and river.
Photo Drinu Cutajar / Pexels
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesA river capital with the best museum in the Sahel, and a caravan city at the desert edge.
Photo Marcia Salido / Pexels

Sahelian mud with projecting timber, and the Agadez minaret as its tallest expression.
Photo Sani Maikatanga / Pexels
Local LifeEverything from millet to motorcycle parts, and the noise that goes with it.
Photo Ghufran Visuals / Pexels
Family & CommunityKouré is a morning trip from Niamey, on foot, and children can do it.
Photo alameen .ng / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

The Tree of Tenere marked the crossing until a truck hit it in 1973. The route is still run.
Photo 光曦 刘 / Pexels

Weeks of walking or riding between guelta and village, with Tuareg guides.
Photo mohamed aouni / Pexels

A few hotels in Niamey. Everything north is camps and hospitality.
The frames people come home with.
Photography / Scenic ViewsThe Tenere at either end of the day, where the only vertical thing is your own shadow.
Photo Luis Quintero / Pexels

The azalai still runs from Agadez to Bilma and back, a thousand kilometres by camel.
Photo Walid Ahmad / Pexels

The emptiest desert on earth, and a giraffe population saved by the people farming next to it.
The emptiest desert on earth, and a giraffe population saved by the people farming next to it.
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