Nature & LandscapesThe Loma Mountains
Cloud forest and montane grassland in the northeast, hardly walked at all.
Photo Verónica Trejo / Pexels
A peninsula where rainforest mountains come down to white sand, Tiwai island with eleven primate species, and the Banana and Turtle Islands offshore — the best beaches in West Africa with almost nobody on them.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesCloud forest and montane grassland in the northeast, hardly walked at all.
Photo Verónica Trejo / Pexels
Mountains1,945 metres in the Loma range, the highest point in West Africa west of Cameroon.
Photo Akshay Nayak / Pexels
Charlotte falls in the peninsula forest, and Bumbuna on the Rokel in the interior.
The Moa runs past Tiwai, and the Rokel comes down to the estuary at Freetown.
White sand, forest behind, and two small islands an hour offshore with reef around them.
Forests & RainforestThe largest remaining block of Upper Guinean forest, now a transboundary park with Liberia.
Photo Alexey Demidov / Pexels
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

An island in the Moa river with one of the highest primate densities anywhere.

Pygmy hippo, forest elephant and bongo in Gola — a forest circuit, not a savanna one.

Eight villages own the island reserve and have done since before the war.
Photo Mico Medel / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.
Freetown was founded by freed slaves, and Krio is the language and the culture that came of it.
Traditional PeopleMende in the south, Temne in the north, and the Krio of the peninsula.

Cassava leaf with palm oil, groundnut stew, and fish straight off the beach.
Photo FOX ^.ᆽ.^= ∫ / Pexels
Illuminated floats through Freetown on the night of Independence Day.
Hand-woven country cloth strips, and gara tie-dye in indigo and kola.
A slaving fort in the estuary, ruined and overgrown, and among the most affecting in Africa.
Freetown grew around one tree where freed slaves gave thanks in 1792.
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesKrio board houses on the hills, the estuary below, and mountains directly behind.
Photo BabijaPhoto JB / Pexels
ArchitectureTimber-framed, shuttered, verandahed — an architecture that came back across the Atlantic.
Photo Barnabas Sani / Pexels
The whole city goes to the beach, and the bars along it play until late.

River No. 2 and Tokeh have forest behind the sand and calm water in the dry season.
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Bureh has a surf club run by the village, and Tiwai has night walks for pottos.
Outdoor ExperiencesFour days from Sinekoro, through forest and out onto grassland above the cloud.
Photo Manass Rex / Pexels
Good beach lodges on the peninsula, and Tiwai's community camp inland.
Photo radwan skeiky / Unsplash
The frames people come home with.
Photography / Scenic ViewsThe peninsula beaches in the late afternoon, when the hills behind them go blue.

Eight sand islands in the far south, reachable only by boat, with no electricity.
The best beaches in West Africa, with rainforest mountains standing behind them.
The best beaches in West Africa, with rainforest mountains standing behind them.
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