Nature & LandscapesCal Madow
A mountain range behind Bosaso with cloud forest on top and frankincense on the slopes.
Photo French Sweetie / Pexels

Three thousand kilometres of Indian Ocean, the painted rock shelters at Laas Geel that are among the oldest in Africa, and the Cal Madow mountains — a country with real destinations and real constraints on reaching them.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesA mountain range behind Bosaso with cloud forest on top and frankincense on the slopes.
Photo French Sweetie / Pexels
Mountains2,460 metres in the Cal Madow, the highest point, with juniper and cycads near the top.
Photo Fez Brook / Pexels

The Shabelle and Juba run south; everything else runs for a fortnight after the rains.
Two rivers off the Ethiopian highlands that make the only irrigated farmland in the country.

Berbera's beaches on the Gulf of Aden, and a reef wall a short swim from the sand.
Photo Saacid Ahmed / Unsplash

Boswellia trees on the Cal Madow slopes, tapped as they have been for four thousand years.
Photo Ivan Georgiev / Pexels
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

Speke's gazelle and dibatag inland, and turtles, dugong and whale sharks offshore.
Photo Mo Liban / Pexels

There are no game lodges. The wildlife here is coastal, and the interior is for those who know it.
Photo Engin Akyurt / Pexels

Boswellia grows on bare limestone where nothing else will, and it holds the slope together.
Photo Pole Oluline / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.
Somalis are called a nation of poets, and the reputation is deserved and enforced.

Camel herding is the oldest way of life here and still a large part of the economy.
Food & CuisineCamel milk, bariis iskukaris spiced with cumin and cardamom, and Somali tea with ginger.
Photo Anthony Rahayel / Pexels

Buraanbur — women's poetry with drumming and dance — carries the celebration.
Photo Israel Torres / Pexels

Aqal nomadic house frames, carved wooden headrests, and woven mats from the north.
Photo Archange Masudi / Pexels
Historic SitesRock shelters near Hargeisa painted with cattle and people, five thousand years old and unfaded.
Photo Amjad ali / Pexels

Mogadishu, Merca and Barawa were trading cities when Europe had none on this ocean.
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesA white Indian Ocean capital rebuilding, and a highland city that has been quiet for thirty years.
Photo ibrahim sakhawi / Pexels

Swahili coral-rag architecture along the southern coast, with heavy carved doors.
Photo Amine EL-AQQAD / Pexels

Hargeisa's livestock market on a weekday morning, and the money that moves through it.

Lido beach in Mogadishu fills at the weekend. Go with local advice, always.
Photo Mikhail Nilov / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Unfished reefs in the Gulf of Aden, and almost no one to share them with.

Cool forest, cycads and views to the Gulf of Aden, from Erigavo.
Photo Nikos B / Pexels
Luxury TravelNew hotels in Hargeisa and Mogadishu, mostly for business travellers, some of them good.
The frames people come home with.
Laas Geel in the morning, when the shelters are lit and the cattle look painted yesterday.
Hidden GemsA decaying Ottoman and colonial old town by the harbour, being slowly repaired.
Photo Cihan Çimen / Pexels

Rock art older than the pyramids, an unfished ocean, and a poetry tradition still practised daily.
Rock art older than the pyramids, an unfished ocean, and a poetry tradition still practised daily.
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