
The Kloto Hills
Coffee and cocoa country in the southwest, forested and cool, around Kpalime.
Photo Siam Chowdhury. / Pexels

A narrow strip from the Atlantic to the Sahel: palm coast, the Kloto hills with the country's best walking, and the fortified Batammariba houses at Koutammakou that are a World Heritage site.
Where the country actually takes you.

Coffee and cocoa country in the southwest, forested and cool, around Kpalime.
Photo Siam Chowdhury. / Pexels
Mountains986 metres, the highest point, walkable in a morning from Kpalime.
Photo Emre Gokceoglu / Pexels

Two falls in the Kloto hills, both of them a short walk off the Kpalime road.
Photo Engin Akyurt / Pexels
Lakes & RiversA shallow lagoon behind the coast, and the Mono river marking the Benin border.
Photo David Kwewum / Pexels

Palm-backed Atlantic sand from Lome east to Aneho, with a heavy swell.
Forests & RainforestSemi-deciduous forest above Kpalime, and one of the richest butterfly sites in West Africa.
Photo Valeriia Miller / Pexels
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

Elephant, buffalo and a great many butterflies in the largest park in the country.
SafariThe parks here are being rebuilt after decades of pressure, and the wildlife with them.
Photo Derek Keats / Pexels
Eco TourismOver five hundred species recorded in one forest, and a local guiding tradition around them.
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

Ewe in the south, Kabye in the centre, Batammariba in the far northwest.
Photo Kadir Altıntaş / Pexels

Their name means 'those who shape the earth', and the houses are the argument.

Fufu with groundnut sauce, and gboma dessi — spinach stew with fish.
Photo Alesia Kozik / Pexels
Festivals & CelebrationsKabye wrestling in July, and the Akodessewa fetish market in Lome all year.
Traditional Arts & CraftsBatik and wood carving around Kpalime, and pottery from the north.
Photo Maria Tsegelnik / Pexels

The first colonial capital, with German and Afro-Brazilian buildings going quietly to seed.
Photo Ali Yılmaz / Pexels
HeritageThe Batammariba landscape has been a World Heritage site since 2004, and is still lived in.
Photo İrfan Simsar / Pexels
Where people actually live between the landmarks.

The only capital on a border, with the biggest market in the region behind the beach.
Photo Klecio Oliveira / Pexels
ArchitectureTakienta houses with granaries on top, and German colonial stone in Lome and Aneho.
Photo Bobby Dimas / Pexels

The women who built the wax-print trade ran it from this market, and still do.
Family & CommunityTogo is narrow enough that the coast and the Kloto hills are the same short trip.
Photo AFRIQUE AYELE-Y / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

Waterfalls, coffee farms, Mont Agou and the butterfly forest, all within an hour.
Photo ธันยกร ไกรสร / Pexels
Outdoor ExperiencesUp before six, and Ghana visible across the valley by seven.
Photo Gérard PITOIS / Pexels
Luxury TravelBeach hotels at Lome and a few good places at Kpalime.
The frames people come home with.
Photography / Scenic ViewsKoutammakou late in the day, when the mud goes gold and the granaries throw shadows.
Photo Shubham Dhage / Pexels
Hidden GemsAn hour east of Lome: a lagoon, a decayed colonial town, and no visitors.
Photo AFRIQUE AYELE-Y / Pexels

A whole cross-section of West Africa in a country you can drive in a day.