Nature & LandscapesTerraces to the Horizon
Almost every hillside in Rwanda is farmed in contour terraces — the landscape is entirely made by hand.

Mountain gorillas on the Virunga volcanoes, a canopy walk over Nyungwe, Lake Kivu, and a capital that is among the cleanest and safest in Africa.
Where the country actually takes you.
Nature & LandscapesAlmost every hillside in Rwanda is farmed in contour terraces — the landscape is entirely made by hand.
MountainsFive cones along the border — Karisimbi, Bisoke, Muhabura — with a crater lake at the top of Bisoke.
WaterfallsA steep tea-and-forest walk down to the Isumo falls on the western edge of the Nyungwe canopy.

One of Africa's great lakes, with no bilharzia, no crocodiles, and the Congo Nile Trail along its shore.
Photo Edouard MIHIGO / Pexels
Beaches & CoastSand, palms and calm freshwater at Gisenyi, an hour from the gorilla trailheads.
Forests & RainforestA suspension walkway sixty metres above one of Africa's oldest montane rainforests, with thirteen primate species below it.
What lives here, and how you see it without disturbing it.

Ten habituated families on the Virunga slopes, one hour with them, eight people at a time.
Photo Alan Cabello / Pexels
SafariLion returned in 2015, rhino in 2017; the eastern savanna park now has all five, twenty years after losing them.
Photo Derek Keats / Pexels

A share of every permit goes to the communities bordering the parks, and gorilla numbers have climbed since it started.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels
The part of a country you cannot photograph from a vehicle.

The Intore warriors' dance, the inanga zither, and drumming that was once the property of the king alone.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels

Cultural villages near Musanze where former poachers now guide, and the beekeepers and potters of the Virunga foothills.
Photo From Salih / Pexels

Grilled goat brochettes, cassava leaf isombe, tilapia from Kivu, and some of the best coffee grown anywhere.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels

The annual gorilla naming ceremony at Kinigi, where every infant born that year is named in front of the whole district.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels
Traditional Arts & CraftsGeometric imigongo panels in black, white and ochre, and the woven agaseke peace basket that is on the coat of arms.
Photo Diego F. Parra / Pexels

The reconstructed royal residence at Nyanza, thatched and enormous, with the long-horned Inyambo cattle still kept.
Photo vasu dev / Pexels

The Kigali Genocide Memorial is where any honest visit to Rwanda starts, and it explains everything that came after.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels
Where people actually live between the landmarks.
CitiesBuilt along ridge lines, swept every morning, and with a monthly Umuganda when the whole city cleans it together.

The Kigali Convention Centre dome, lit at night in the national colours, above a city of red-roofed ridges.

Fabric, fruit and everything else under one roof, and the tailors who will make it up by tomorrow.
Photo Ana Kenk / Pexels

The last Saturday of every month, the country stops and works on something communal. Visitors are welcome to join.
Photo Bullet Honore / Pexels
For travellers who would rather walk it than watch it.

227 kilometres along Lake Kivu on foot or by bike, through coffee terraces and fishing villages.
Photo Edouard MIHIGO / Pexels

Three hours up through nettles and bamboo to a crater lake at 3,711 m, and three hours back down through mud.
Photo kevin yung / Pexels

A handful of very good lodges within sight of the park boundary, built so the trek starts after breakfast.
Photo Keegan Checks / Pexels
The frames people come home with.
The Virunga chain clears for about an hour after dawn, and the terraces below hold the light for longer.
Hidden GemsRwanda's newest national park, a recovering forest between Nyungwe and the volcanoes that almost nobody visits.

Gorillas, canopy forest, Big Five and a lake shore, all within three hours of a capital you can walk at night.
Gorillas, canopy forest, Big Five and a lake shore, all within three hours of a capital you can walk at night.
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